Proffesor

1) The wholesale glass supplier here in Pattaya, doesn't have 2-way mirror glass. 2) Comparatively simple electronics package: whatever device that you are going to use to feed the information to the screen. A package that doesn'tr need a Degree in Computer engineering / Software Design to set-up. 3) GUI : Graphical User Interface - output from the electronics package that will display the information on the screen in a manner that is logical / understandable. It occurs to me, using a 2-way mirror in front of a TV screen won't give you "touch-screen" operation. Need to do more research, when I have the time. Will get back to you . . . .

We can do the woodworking aspect of this - no problem. Sourcing a suitable 2 way mirror might be problematic - I'll make some enquiries. If you can supply ( a comparatively simple, with built-in GUI ) electronics package, we should be able to integrate it. Smart TV's are readily available here, so that aspect shouldn't be a problem. Have you had your condo hard-wired for internet ( LAN ) ?

Thanks very much. Watched them both; enjoyed them both.

Thanks for that, Sir. Much appreciated.

Could someone please post a link to part ! ? T I A

Sunday Roast ( 1/4 ) chicken, stuffing ball, cabbage, mash potato, roast potatoes, carrots, peas, cauliflower cheese, Yorkshire pud and a pig in blanket. THB 220. Tropical restaurant on Soi KhaoNoi. Roast Pork, Beef and Lamb also available.

A few weeks ago, I did a small job ( installed a grease trap under the kitchen sink ) for Mr Egg. Got a complaint a week later that it was leaking, so sent one of my guys back to sort it out. Transpires that it wasn't being cleaned and the accumulated grease had clogged the outflow, causing the drain water to back-up. Anyway . . . no charge, staff instructed to clean every other day. Mr Egg said to drop by somewhen for a cuppa. So today, late morning finds me in town, so I dropped in for the promised pot of Rosie Lea. On the way in spotted the menu board " Irish Stew"; excellent me thinks, I'll maybe have some of that - but transpires the last portion went yesterday. On the "standard" menu "Chicken Tika Masala, Pilau rice and / or Chips"; so I gave that a go. Exceedingly Excellent it was. I was allowed to pay for the Tika, but the tea was on the house. Thanks Phil. Continue doing what you're doing, 'cause its working ! If you've not visited LePub to try the food - you're missing out ! Go On, Give It A Go . . .

I follow posts on Quora. Have just seen this ;- Why is Israel throwing away a million vaccines? Israel is not “throwing away a million vaccines”, not yet, anyway. There are around 800,000 doses that officially expire at the end of July, 2021 at Israel’s disposal. Despite all their complaints to anyone who would listen about Israel not helping them the PA refused to accept these doses. Since then, the Israeli government is looking for any country willing to accept them. Hopefully, there will be takers. Are there any Israeli's here ? or anyone with good contacts in Israel ? ? Must admit that I don't follow International politics, so could be talking out of my ass here; BUT, I'd be prepared to fly to Israel, accept a vaccine, then fly back and suffer the mandated 2 week quarantine in Bangkok ( if I couldn't get into the Phuket "Sandbox" ). Got to be better than waiting until ( probably ) next year waiting my turn to get one here . . .

Well done Danny !

I usually watch this the F1 on Fox Sport HD ( via my TMN provider ? ) on a Samsung smart TV ( channel 525 ). I was able to watch the qualifying on Saturday evening, but yesterday, channel 525 was dead. I have 2 other older TV's in the house, but they have far fewer channels available to them than the newer one does. 1) How does the newer TV access more channels than the older ones ? 2) What are the other options available to me to watch the FI races ? 3) Why was channel 525 ( Fox Sports HD ) not available yesterday afternoon / evening ? I'm sure there are guys out there with much more knowledge of these issues than I have. T.I.A. Proffesor

F.W.I.W I took myself along to Pattaya International Hospital this lunchtime, breezed up to Reception and said "Covid Vaccine, please", whilst presenting my Passport, WorkPermit and Yellow Address Book. The Receptionist reached for a NoteBook and entered my name and contact details and told me that if would be after June and they would only have Sinovac. So, I believe I'm registered. Now have to wait and see if I get contacted.

I think my Samsung J7 ( had a Note 4 before ) has just died. 3 weeks ago it refused to charge the battery. Got a new battery, and this evening it is refusing to charge again. The last couple of months it's being doing what it wants, rather than what I'm asking it to do, so I'm resigned to starting over. The question is, what do I buy ? Advise please . . . I use the phone as a phone, and I use the standard Smart Phone functions. All the major Messaging Apps ( WhatsApp & Line predominantly ). Gmail. Google search. Calendar. Camera. Mobile Banking. Previously, I've insisted on having a phone with a user swappable battery, but they seem to be as rare as hens teeth these days. Don't need to spend more than necessary, as there is always the prospect of dropping it whilst working. Reading the more recent posts, would I be correct in assuming the xiaomi or the Oppo A23 are reasonable choices ?

If they really want in, they'll find a way to get in, for sure. In a condo, you need to consider both the way in from the corridor, as well as the way in from the balcony, or any other external access / entry point. The higher you are up in a condo, the safer you will usually be, until you come to the top couple of floors, where coming down from the roof doesn't seem too dangerous . . . .

Huge selection available, depending what you want. Including :- Fingerprint scanning Pincode Single / multiple key locks using keys that are not easy to replicate Electronic locks that require a "dongle", smartphone or other Near Field Device Debit / Credit / security card readers Combinations of the above. Also, a door supplier ( Scorpion Doors ) who have steel doors in steel frames, with multi-point locking activated by a variety of door handles and/or locks. Some of the locks exceed the cost of the doors. All depends what you want / need. We have used Scorpion doors on a number of installations, to the satisfaction of clients. And 'No", I'm in no way connected to them other than as a satisfied customer / contractor.

Is that the latest offeringfrom Morgan ?

Thanks for the vote of support, Sir

Thanks for your input fygjam. I'm not going to argue with any information published by a National Institution. In Europe, Electricians follow the IEE ( Institute of Electrical Engineers, I believe ) Regulations, currently Edition 18 is the required standard ( enacted 01/01/2019 ) which, incidentally, requires RCD protection on all plug socket circuits rated at up to 32 Amps.

Good evening, Sir In my opinion, in an ideal world, every appliance ( A/c, water heater, oven, hob ( + Hood ) ) etc. should have it's own dedicated circuit and breaker. If there is the potential for water and electric to mix - whether it be by design ( a shower heater ) or potential accident ( a hair dryer plugged into a power socket next to the vanity basin in a bathroom ) then that appliance or plug socket circuit should be protected by a GFI / RCH / ELCB ( or whatever ). Plug socket circuits in a kitchen should also have protection ( dishwasher, washing machine, water purifier etc. etc. - all plugged into kitchen wall sockets, all mixing water and electric by design ! ) Yes, a shower / water heater should have its own integrated protection device. Fitting an additional protection device in the supply line isn't going to hurt. I would probably have fitted an additional 16 (? - see below ) amp RCBO at the MDB, instead of the "fuse switch " ( I presume you mean Breaker ) + the RCD - but that's just my approach. Another tip. Shower Water heaters are rated in Kw ( KiloWatts ). 1 Kw = 1,000 watts. There is a formulae that relates Volts, Watts and Amps, which is Watts / Volts= Amps. In Thailand the supply voltage is supposed to be 230 Volts, but with infrastructure overload and poor distribution networks, it is usually less. Let's assume 225. So; a 3.5Kw shower in Thailand draws how many Amps ? 3500 ( Watts ) / 225 ( Volts ) = 15.9 ( Amps ). If the supply voltage goes down ( as it often does in times of peak demand ) to 200 Volts; then 3500 ( Watts ) / 200 ( Volts ) = 17.5 ( Amps ). So, your 16 amp fuse / breaker is marginal for a 3.5 Kw shower / water heater - I would use a 20 amp. Rule of thumb - cable sizes. The rated capacity of a cable differs dependent upon any number of factors, but the rule of thumb that I use for copper cables is :- cable size ( Cross sectional area in Sq.mm ) x 0.66666 = current capacity ( Amps ). For example :- 0.75 sq.mm = 5 amps 1.0 sq.mm = 6.5 amps 1.5 sq.mm = 10 amps 2.5 sq.mm = 16 amps 4.0 sq.mm = 26 amps 6.0 sq.mm = 40 amps 10 sq.mm = 66 amps On which basis, using a 2.5sq.mm cable for a 3.5 Kw shower is marginal at best. Possibly O.K. if the cable run is very short. A 4.0 sq.mm cable would be preferable. Sorry - long answer to a short question ! Thank-you and Good Night.

Unfortunately, this is not unusual in Thailand. From a contractors point of view, it makes it very difficult to Quote for work ( of any kind ) because until you get into the job, you just don't know what you're going to find / have to fix, in order to get the job done to an acceptable standard.

It's good to give the old brain cells a work-out every now and then.

Somebody mentioned my name . . . ? Firstly, I need to clarify, I'm a Marine Engineer and as such have a working knowledge of electrics, but I'm not an Electrical Engineer, per se. O.K. There are a variety of Devices which all do much the same thing, to provide a degree of protection against electrocution and / or fire :- GFI ( USA ) Ground Fault Interrupter ELCB Earth Leakage Circuit breaker RCD Residual Current Device RCBO Residual Current Breaker Overload The first 3 provide a degree of protection against electrocution, fire etc, within a given Load Rating, but do not provide Overload Protection - but the 4th ( RCBO ) also provides Overload ( relative to a given rating ) Protection. In basic, simplistic, terms, Power goes out via the Live ( Hot ) wire, to the appliance, where it does "work", then returns via the Neutral wire. The GFI ( or whatever Device you choose ), measures the amount of "power" going out, and compares it to the amount coming back; if there is less coming back than going out, then some power is getting lost, so the Device assumes a fault and "trips" isolating the power from the suspect circuit and any all appliances on it. It doesn't matter if the power "loss" is caused by condensation in a rarely used device, due to a bad connection or insulation, or to a child poking something into a socket outlet, the Device will see the "problem" and isolate the power to it. Devices are available with different ratings, typically 10mA/mSec; 30mA/mSec & 100mA/mSec. A 30mA Device will protect most people from Death by Electrocution; the very young and the aged and/or infirm, may succumb. This is the rating usually recommended for use in a domestic environment. 10mA are used in very sensitive environments - perhaps a children's play area. 10mA is not very much in terms of power, a 10mA Device may suffer from spurious tripping due to condensation etc. 100mA Devices will not usually prevent electrocution, but are useful in Commercial / Industrial environments where there is concern that the electrical infrastructure might be susceptible to fire, caused by electrical issues. To return to the O.P. Safe-T-Cut is a device manufacturer. They produce stand-alone Devices which can be installed in the supply lines to the MDB ( Main Distribution Board - sometimes referred to as a Load Center ). This is all well and good. The Device should isolate all power to the MDB in the event that one ( or more ) of the circuits out of the MDB develop a fault. However, the Device in this location will isolate ALL of the power to the MDB - so every circuit out of that MDB will be "dead"; not just the circuit(s) with the fault. Safe-T-Cut ( and other manufacturers ) also manufacture MDB's with a Safe-T-Cut device installed in lieu of the main breaker ( which is used to isolate power to all circuits, typically when the MDB is being worked on ). It is often possible to buy a Device to replace the main breaker in an existing MDB, thereby achieving an upgrade. This is something that we routinely do when refurbishing a domestic property ( house or condo ). The disadvantage of the Device turning everything off in the event of a fault, is overshadowed by the inherent feature of ( virtually ) eliminating the risk of electrocution or fire, throughout the premises. Individual circuits out of the MDB are controlled by individual overload devices. In days of old, this would be a fuse. Typically a piece of fine wire, capable of carrying the rated load of the circuit, but too much load and it would get hot and melt, thereby isolating that circuit. Today, MCB's are typically used. These ( Miniature Circuit Breakers ) do the same job, but can be reset after an overload event, instead of having to be replaced. RCBO's can be substituted for MCB's, thereby providing both safety and overload protection on individual circuits. Then, if a single circuit trips out, the remaining circuits still retain power. There have been a couple of occasions where we've upgraded an MDB main switch to an ELCB and it's tripped immediately. With everything turned off, unplugged, disconnected, it still refused to stay engaged. We believe this is due to the state of the electrical installation / wiring within the premises. One of the clients accepted this diagnosis and had us rewire the premises. The other insisted that everything was working O.K. before we arrived, and therefore, was acceptable - so, reluctantly, we left it as we found it ( and archived the email'd communications regarding the issue, in case we are ever held to account ). Her ends the lesson for toady. In Conclusion. The Devices are good and do provide protection, but the type of device and its location should be discussed with someone with at least a working knowledge of domestic electrics.

I was about to give up

Depends on the volume of water you put through it. For the wife and I, probably works out between THB 3 & > 4k p.a. For me, it is the convenience, not having to remember to buy ( and carry ) fresh water, or run to the village water machine. It's worth stating that the quality of the water that comes out of an adequately maintained fresh water filter system, with Reverse Osmosis and U.V treatment, should be as good as bottled water.

Yes, We have one. Installed it about 7 years ago and must have installed at least another half-dozen for various clients. For a system with Reverse Osmosis and U.V, together with a sensible size holding tank, you're looking at THB12 > 15k.

If you mean a shop where you can buy a Safe, Yes, there is one a bit further up the road opposite Harbour Mall, called My Safe. If you mean a secure ( safe ) storage unit, then No, not that I'm aware of, but there are storage units available just off of Thrappaya ( Pattaya Storage I believe is the name ).