Hakuna Matata from East Africa

[Mr. Smooth]

Nearly a decade after I took my very first trip to Kenya, I just completed my 10th. And the pull of the country, and the people, remain as strong as ever. Being retired now, rather than be limited in time to a 2 week time frame due to having to be back at work, I was able to extend this trip to nearly 4 weeks, and after being there for that amount of time, I can't ever imagine staying any less time from here on out.

I started by flying from Sacramento, Calif up to Seattle, Washington to spend the night before departing on a Lufthansa flight that next morning to Frankfurt, Germany then the connecting flight onward to Nairobi, Kenya. I bought a premium economy ticket for the additional leg room plus having a much wider arm rest, since there wasn't any way I wanted to be confined to economy for what would be a combined 23 hours inside an aircraft.

This trip I was able to not have to pay for any Covid test prior to flying either going or coming back, a savings of $360 USD, from the last trip, and which I was able to apply to my accommodations. Lufthansa, though still making mask wearing mandatory, the flight crew was pretty lax in telling passengers to keep them on throughout the flight, even when not eating. A refreshing departure from the last time, back in October, when the flight attendants went up and down the aisles like prison guards keeping a close eye if a mask drifted below one's nostrils on a sleeping passenger.....ahem.

A few nights in a fairly brisk Nairobi, well, brisk for them, as temperatures might dip down to 14 or 15 Celsius, about 58-60 degrees, at night, which would cause much of the motorbike taxi drivers to dress as if they were about to embark on an Everest expedition. After a short stay, I would make the hour long flight to the Kenya coast, and where I would enjoy the sights, sounds, food, music and companionship for the remainder of my stay.

After flying halfway around the planet on aircraft that featured the latest in state of the art aeronautical engineering, I made the final leg on a Fly 540 aircraft, a regional outfit that looked like it might have flown Humphrey Bogart out of Casablanca in an earlier age. Fortunately, the old dog brought us in safe and sound, as well as a decent view of Mt. Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa at over 19,000 feet, from it's cruising altitude of 23,000 feet.

I had reached my ultimate destination and was ready to experience the delights that awaited me after checking in to my digs, The Coral Beach Resort, right on the Indian Ocean.

I wouldn't have to wait for long.

 

A few pics of my room and the view outside my patio. About 100 yards out to the Indian Ocean

 

[Sherlock]

Really looking to this TR. 

[Mr. Smooth]

I was originally booked into a studio that was further back away from the water, but the manager informed me she had some ocean view apts without a kitchen available if I was interested. She told me they went for $90 USD per night, but without breakfast, she would give me a discount of $70 per night. One look and I was sold. 

A few more of the property along with a photo of one of my neighbors and of the "white knuckle express" that brought me in from Nairobi.

[Golfingboy]

Looking forward to your report Eric. Since you mentioned you went there, I saw Kenya seems to be very underrated among Western travellers, including the “companion” situation. Always wanted to do Ethiopia as well, same area and I heard from my buddy it’s just awesome fun as a tourist, your $ goes so far

One look at that plane though, and I’m guaranteeing you I’d need a box of diapers! 

[galenkia]

Only time I've been to Africa is to Gambia on the West side. Really enjoyed it and had the pleasure of some lovely ladies company 😉

Edited September 4, 2022 by galenkia

[coxyhog]

12 hours ago, Golfingboy said:

One look at that plane though, and I’m guaranteeing you I’d need a box of diapers! 

Bombardier Dash 8,made in Canada.

IF it's maintained properly & IF the crews are competent you shouldn't have any problems.

[Freee!!]

1 hour ago, coxyhog said:

Bombardier Dash 8,made in Canada.

IF it's maintained properly & IF the crews are competent you shouldn't have any problems.

Those are two very big ifs, especially in that region.

[Yessongs]

Outstanding Eric, nice place to stay, looking forward to more of your " adventures" 

[boydeste]

2 hours ago, Yessongs said:

Outstanding Eric, nice place to stay, looking forward to more of your " adventures" 

Ditto from me too. 

[Mr. Smooth]

I settled in and spent the next week in Diani Beach enjoying the local restaurants, nightlife and a couple of companions I had kept in touch with via whatsapp. While there is plenty of opportunities to meet women pretty much anywhere you go, having a couple of somewhat "known quantities", did pay off in the best ways you can imagine, as there was already a built in comfort level with them and the conversation over dinner and drinks flowed easily. And having some great meals only enhanced the time spent with them.

My accommodation was tucked back off the main road about a 300 yard distance past a gate guard entrance, just off the main Diani Beach Road. And just across the road and down maybe 100 yards was a fantastic Italian restaurant that made a delectable cheese and spinach ravioli dish that was among the best I ever had. It was so good, I went back a second time for the same dish a few days later, alone this time.

A 15 minute walk away, there was a popular chain called "Java House", where they served all manner of hot and iced coffee, a variety of desserts and assorted sandwiches. Because of it's convenient location, it made for a perfect spot to meet with Njeri, a bartender at a popular nightspot. I'd got her number on my previous trip and we finally made a connection this time, and it was as good as I had hoped it would be. Though she had just one night off per week, she worked it out with a work colleague to pull a shift for her so we could spend more time together.

The other woman who would occupy my time in Diani, was Miriam, who in addition to working as a part time model, was employed in the transport business that involved getting farm produce to the market. She was as smart as she was gorgeous, and it took me a couple evenings with her to close the deal. But once we did, it was the kind of experience that one imagines he will have when embarking on such a journey.

Miriam, in addition to her looks, was a truly classy woman with a great personality once she felt comfortable, and I guess my charm and sense of humor won her over. We had a tremendous time together and she left open the possibility of more to come upon my return.

Living ten time zones away, despite the words and promises one might say, I know the deal as far as these things can go. But the thought was definitely a pleasant one to contemplate, and besides, I'm looking at a return in the spring of '23, so who knows?

 Here's a few shots of the ladies and the delicious food. Miriam wore this gorgeous, colorful dress. Even the Massai beach guard couldn't take his eyes off her!

[coxyhog]

7 hours ago, Freee!! said:

Those are two very big ifs, especially in that region.

That is why the IF's were in capitals....

[Golfingboy]

14 minutes ago, coxyhog said:

That is why the IF's were in capitals....

Intermittent Fasting is a great eating plan too

[Mr. Smooth]

13 hours ago, coxyhog said:

Bombardier Dash 8,made in Canada.

IF it's maintained properly & IF the crews are competent you shouldn't have any problems.

It was actually a replacement aircraft, and airline, from the one I had originally booked with, East African Airlines. The propellers caused a nonstop vibration through the entire 1 hour flight and it was a bit strange to look out the window and see the landing gear emerge and unfold from underneath the wing!

But the cost for a one way ticket was only $36 USD, so I wasn't expecting many bells and whistles. I just wanted the flight to get me there, which it did without incident.

[coxyhog]

6 hours ago, Mr. Smooth said:

It was actually a replacement aircraft, and airline, from the one I had originally booked with, East African Airlines. The propellers caused a nonstop vibration through the entire 1 hour flight and it was a bit strange to look out the window and see the landing gear emerge and unfold from underneath the wing!

But the cost for a one way ticket was only $36 USD, so I wasn't expecting many bells and whistles. I just wanted the flight to get me there, which it did without incident.

At least the landing gear emerged,they've had a few problems in the past with those gears.

[Mr. Smooth]

Prior to booking my flight for late July through the 3rd week of August, I had no idea Kenya was going to have a Presidential election, which took place on August 9th. Because of the previous history of violence in some parts of the country, people were reluctant to travel. In past elections, there were incidence of roadside blockades, vehicles being burned, people injured or even killed, depending on which side you supported. Obviously for many Kenyans, those memories served to keep many home until the election was over and a winner declared.

That meant that many nightlife venues were lacking in patrons that ordinarily might be packed with people coming to the coast from Nairobi and other parts of the country, for a coastal holiday. Several restaurants had empty tables, even on weekends, where normally they might have a bustling trade going on. For the remainder of the week I spent in Diani Beach, it was chill days spent at a beach bar that had a skeletal crew with few customers. The evenings were hit and miss as far as where the nightlife crowd might go to. The most popular place was called "Manatta", a bar-nightclub that seemed to have taken the business from the previous hot spot a kilometer back up the road, "Tandoori", which for years had been the "go to" spot.

I spent a few night checking Mannata out and for the most part, it was a decent enough scene. But since the nightclub part wasn't really getting going until after 1 am, I wasn't going to stay out until 3 or 4 in the morning (I think it was open until 6 am) and was headed back to my room much earlier. As I might have enjoyed a nice, late afternoon visit from a young lady who would take care of my "needs", a good 4-5 hours out and about at night was good enough.

As the trip progressed, having a late afternoon session with a willing companion would more often that not, become the norm, which would then basically free me from searching out anyone in particular at night, especially a waitress working at a pub or lounge, save for maybe getting her number to make plans for her day off.

I would get way too many numbers and have way too little time to meet them all.

Ah, such are the problems a guy has to endure on the Kenya Coast.

A few more of the great food, one from a small roadside spot and the other from a German place. Both were fantastic and priced under $9 USD. Then there was Sarah, a young lady from Nairobi I have known for about 5 years. She took the train to Mombasa from Nairobi and became my "wife" for 3-4 days. A very accommodating woman with a healthy appetite, and I'm not talking food! She came down to stay with me just before the election as she wanted to leave Nairobi due to any potential violence that might happen. She didn't have to worry as things were pretty calm. But I didn't mind her company one bit. Not our first go around. Nor will it be our last.

The split was very amicable.

 

[galenkia]

On 9/4/2022 at 8:26 PM, Mr. Smooth said:

I settled in and spent the next week in Diani Beach enjoying the local restaurants, nightlife and a couple of companions I had kept in touch with via whatsapp. While there is plenty of opportunities to meet women pretty much anywhere you go, having a couple of somewhat "known quantities", did pay off in the best ways you can imagine, as there was already a built in comfort level with them and the conversation over dinner and drinks flowed easily. And having some great meals only enhanced the time spent with them.

My accommodation was tucked back off the main road about a 300 yard distance past a gate guard entrance, just off the main Diani Beach Road. And just across the road and down maybe 100 yards was a fantastic Italian restaurant that made a delectable cheese and spinach ravioli dish that was among the best I ever had. It was so good, I went back a second time for the same dish a few days later, alone this time.

A 15 minute walk away, there was a popular chain called "Java House", where they served all manner of hot and iced coffee, a variety of desserts and assorted sandwiches. Because of it's convenient location, it made for a perfect spot to meet with Njeri, a bartender at a popular nightspot. I'd got her number on my previous trip and we finally made a connection this time, and it was as good as I had hoped it would be. Though she had just one night off per week, she worked it out with a work colleague to pull a shift for her so we could spend more time together.

The other woman who would occupy my time in Diani, was Miriam, who in addition to working as a part time model, was employed in the transport business that involved getting farm produce to the market. She was as smart as she was gorgeous, and it took me a couple evenings with her to close the deal. But once we did, it was the kind of experience that one imagines he will have when embarking on such a journey.

Miriam, in addition to her looks, was a truly classy woman with a great personality once she felt comfortable, and I guess my charm and sense of humor won her over. We had a tremendous time together and she left open the possibility of more to come upon my return.

Living ten time zones away, despite the words and promises one might say, I know the deal as far as these things can go. But the thought was definitely a pleasant one to contemplate, and besides, I'm looking at a return in the spring of '23, so who knows?

 Here's a few shots of the ladies and the delicious food. Miriam wore this gorgeous, colorful dress. Even the Massai beach guard couldn't take his eyes off her!

I really should go back to Africa, really enjoyed my time there.

People are so nice and friendly. Plenty hot available girls as well.

Love it there.

[Mr. Smooth]

23 minutes ago, galenkia said:

I really should go back to Africa, really enjoyed my time there.

People are so nice and friendly. Plenty hot available girls as well.

Love it there.

You would absolutely love Kenya, mate. Though lacking the numbers of Pattaya because of size, there are plenty of UK expats, as well as Germans, Scandinavians, and other Europeans and a smattering of Yanks who either live there year round, or spend a majority of the year there with one or two trips back home for a few weeks.

One huge advantage the European guys have over Americans, which I tried to explain to the ladies when I told them why so few Americans were here and if they had a white man for a boyfriend he would most likely be European, was that from about 5-6 airports in Europe, you can reach Nairobi in 8 hours nonstop. A guy can have breakfast at home, head for the airport, fly down, and meet up with his gf for a late night dinner in Kenya that same day. For me, it's a 30 hour journey, so not a lot of guys from the States willing to do that, or have the time necessary, to make it feasible.

Hell, after 8 hours, I might be leaving my aisle seat to take a leak in a cramped airline bathroom 33,000 feet above Greenland!

Not to mention at least half of Americans, maybe more, couldn't find Kenya on a map.

Edited September 5, 2022 by Mr. Smooth

[Freee!!]

16 minutes ago, Mr. Smooth said:

You would absolutely love Kenya, mate. Though lacking the numbers of Pattaya because of size, there are plenty of UK expats, as well as Germans, Scandinavians, and other Europeans and a smattering of Yanks who either live there year round, or spend a majority of the year there with one or two trips back home for a few weeks.

One huge advantage the European guys have over Americans, which I tried to explain to the ladies when I told them why so few Americans were here and if they had a white man for a boyfriend he would most likely be European, was that from about 5-6 airports in Europe, you can reach Nairobi in 8 hours nonstop. A guy can have breakfast at home, head for the airport, fly down, and meet up with his gf for a late night dinner in Kenya that same day. For me, it's a 30 hour journey, so not a lot of guys from the States willing to do that, or have the time necessary, to make it feasible.

Hell, after 8 hours, I might be leaving my aisle seat to take a leak in a cramped airline bathroom 33,000 feet above Greenland!

Not to mention at least half of Americans, maybe more, couldn't find Kenya on a map.

I think you are underestimating the amount of airports within that range, from Schiphol it is 8 hours and 5 minutes, from Heathrow it is 8 hours and 35 minutes. The time zone difference between the UK and Kenya complicates it a bit more than those 30 minutes.

On the other hand, Bangkok is about 12 hours non-stop from Schiphol.

Last time I paid attention to it, about half of Americans couldn't even find the USA on a map.

[Golfingboy]

2 hours ago, Mr. Smooth said:

A guy can have breakfast at home, head for the airport, fly down, and meet up with his gf for a late night dinner in Kenya that same day. For me, it's a 30 hour journey, so not a lot of guys from the States willing to do that, or have the time necessary, to make it feasible.

Not to mention at least half of Americans, maybe more, couldn't find Kenya on a map.

I was looking from JFK or Newark, and I don’t think there are any direct flights anymore. Turkish is about 20 hours with a stop in Istanbul, and about $1K CAD, not bad. But yes, not the most pleasant or quick voyage for a North American

[Mr. Smooth]

1 hour ago, Golfingboy said:

I was looking from JFK or Newark, and I don’t think there are any direct flights anymore. Turkish is about 20 hours with a stop in Istanbul, and about $1K CAD, not bad. But yes, not the most pleasant or quick voyage for a North American

Actually, Kenya Airways, KQ, flies nonstop between Nairobi and JFK, in New York City. Last I checked, they were flying this 4 days a week, down from the 6 days when the route first started in either 2017 or 2018. It is roughly 13.5-14 hours to Nairobi, and about an hour more returning to NYC.

But in order for me to make that flight, I would need to book a red eye departing the previous night from California and combined with the 6-7 hour layover after arriving at JFK, it wouldn't do me any good. I'd just as soon depart from the West Coast for Germany, then connect. 

Edited September 5, 2022 by Mr. Smooth

[Mr. Smooth]

After a week in Diani, I checked out and returned to Mtwapa, north of Mombasa, and what might be considered the Pattaya of Kenya, though on a much smaller, less in your face, scale. This is where I've been coming each trip since the beginning and I have been there enough times to be somewhat known among the locals and expat crowd.

Causaurina is the primary disco-club to find the hookers and would always have it's share of mzungus and expats coming in by midnight to check out the merchandise available. While it can be a fun night out, my own deal was in finding a nice young lady who worked at a pub as a server or bartender, or even in meeting someone who worked at a shop of some kind during the day selling clothes, trinkets, produce or whatever.

There was always some eager young lady working at a salon, asking me if I wanted to come inside and chat even though I had no intention of getting a haircut or manicure/pedicure. Just local ladies on the lookout for a white man and doing their best "come hither" motion to attract my attention before continuing down the road.

And there was the beach, with one of my favorite spots to go, The Big Tree Beach Bar and Restaurant. I took Milly there, and enjoyed a pizza, drinks and then a nice walk on the beach with the tide out several hundred yards. But as with Diani Beach, the breeze off the Indian Ocean carried the sound of the breakwater ashore from over a mile away.

Arriving here about 1 in the afternoon, it was easy to lose all track of time with the gentle ebb and flow of the passing scene, the combination of an ocean breeze, the sand and sea, the local music keeping an easy rhythm that was at once enchanting and hypnotic, and before I knew it, it was after 4 and time to get back for couple hours back at the apartment with Milly before she had to get home to prepare dinner for her mother and brother, as they all lived together and she took it upon herself to do the cooking.

While I'm sure whatever she cooked was delicious, I found myself going back to the Safari Inn, a favorite restaurant for many years, and ordering up their cordon bleu dish.

The day, and those that would come after, couldn't have gone any better.

[KWA]

On 9/5/2022 at 9:36 PM, Freee!! said:

I think you are underestimating the amount of airports within that range . . .

I don't think there are that many with direct passenger flights.  Frankfurt, Amsterdam and Paris CDG are the only ones that spring to mind.

[Freee!!]

2 hours ago, KWA said:

I don't think there are that many with direct passenger flights.  Frankfurt, Amsterdam and Paris CDG are the only ones that spring to mind.

I was a bit surprised to find you are correct, I expected direct flights out of Munich, Zürich, Milan, Rome, Madrid and/or Barcelona, but none of them.

[Yessongs]

Nice report buddy....really enjoying your narratives and pics. 

[Mr. Smooth]

One of the things I greatly admire about the Kenyan people is their ability and attitude when it comes to hard work and hustling up work to earn any money they can. One of my favorite pubs in Mtwapa is the "Eagles Nest", an upstairs place that offers a nice view of the street life below, the comings and goings of the people as they move about getting from place to place or in making the rounds with their goods using their own manpower to bring their bounty to the people.

While perched up along the railing of the Eagles Nest having an afternoon beer, you could observe down on the street a guy pushing a lorry full of coconuts with a noise maker attached to the wheel which would alert people with each turn of that he was around. This gent in particular, despite the tough task at hand, pushed his goods down the road with a smile on his face and good humor in his heart, stopping to have a quick word with a local, tourist or expat, many that he knew and they knew him. The banter back and forth was always friendly and even if a sale wasn't made, he would say goodbye with a hopeful, "Maybe tomorrow my friend", and make his way on down the road.

Not long after, another cart would appear, this one full of a variety of fresh produce. Every couple of days, I might stop by a shop where the lady would prepare a delicious fruit juice drink, made from her purchase of produce from this cart. On a warm afternoon, a cold and tasty fruit juice drink was just the ticket to offer relief, and a slight break from the Tusker beer.

These people would push their carts 6 days a week, from early morning through late afternoon, and it only served to remind me how hard life can be for the people to earn a living. Even if working at a hotel reception desk, the people I might talk to about their jobs would tell me of the 14 or 16 hours they might be on duty for at a given time, like the young lady at the hotel in Nairobi I was at who started her shift at 6 pm and would not be relieved until 8 am the following morning. Not every day, but a couple days each week, that was the schedule. And when I offered my sympathy to their plight, they would just chalk it up to, "It's Kenya", and do what was necessary to survive.

My world, by comparison, was a cakewalk.

Though they work damn hard and put in long hours, they are a happy people, by and large, and when they have the time, they enjoy a good time.

As do the local police.

They would make their nightly rounds collecting their take from the pub owners along the road who didn't pay a full license to sell liquor and beer after 11 pm. The nightly harvest would begin as the clock struck 11, and the police jeep would drive up to the pub, stop and chat for a minute or two with the owner or manager, then move along to the next pub maybe not even 75 yards down the road.

I asked the owner of one about it and was very open. Since they did not have a license to sell alcohol after 11 pm, if they didn't pay the cops, they would have to close at that time. By making a nightly contribution of 200 shillings, about $1.90 USD, that would free them to stay open till 2 or 3 am, or later if there were customers, so the pay out to the cops was well worth it to have the opportunity to sell alcohol another 3-4 hours, or more. So the cops make money and look the other way while the unlicensed pub owner stays open to make his or her money, and the taxes on the sale of that beer and booze into the late night hours, makes money for the government. So everyone is happy.

Just the way things get done.

A couple of pics of the road just down from my apartment to show the contrast of the area by day and night. Where the goat herd was walking about 1 pm was almost in the same spot 12 hours later where a group of boda boda taxi drivers lined up like something out of The Magnificent Seven, waiting for a passenger to be shuffled off to the next pub or their room. They kept a sharp eye out for any patron paying their bill and getting ready to leave, as they might start up their motorbike and race each other to the pub in the hope to secure that next fare. 

All nice guys who got to know me after a few days and always called out, "You good"?, when approaching, wondering if I needed a ride. One night, I bought them all Cokes from the pub just across the street and down about 50 meters from this pic, and after each one walked out of the pub with a bottle of Coke, to a man, and all unfailingly polite, would stop to shake my hand and say, "Thank you."

Was my pleasure, fellas!